How to replace a door yourself

How to replace a door yourself?

Tired of squeaky, drafty doors that stick? Replacing an interior door costs $50-$150 DIY versus $200-$500 hired out, and can be completed in 2-4 hours with basic tools. As someone who's installed 300+ doors in renovation projects, I'll show you how to avoid the 5 most common mistakes homeowners make.

The easiest replacement uses pre-hung doors ($80-$250), where the frame comes assembled. For slab doors ($40-$120), you'll transfer hinges from the old door—this requires precise measurements but saves 30-40% in material costs.

types of replacement doors

Follow this step-by-step process:

What tools do you need?

Gather these essentials before starting:

Door Replacement Toolkit

Tool Purpose Alternatives
Tape Measure Verify door size Yardstick + marking gauge
Utility Knife Remove old caulk/trim Putty knife
Pry Bar Remove door stops Flathead screwdriver
Shims Level/precision gaps Wood scraps
Cordless Drill Hinge screws Manual screwdriver
Circular Saw Trim door slab (if needed) Handsaw
Chisel Set hinges/jamb depth Utility knife

Pro substitutes:

  • Paint can opener works for removing trim
  • Credit card as a gap gauge (1/8" ideal)
  • Clamps can hold door steady during adjustments
  • Rubber mallet protects surfaces during fitting

How to remove the old door?

Follow this sequence to prevent damage:

Removal Steps

  1. Remove door stops carefully with pry bar (save for reuse)
  2. Unscrew hinges from jamb starting with bottom hinge
  3. Extract hinge pins if reusing hinges (hammer + nail trick)
  4. Cut paint/caulk seals around frame with utility knife
  5. Check for hidden screws at latch/lock areas
  6. Pull entire unit out or disassemble piece-by-piece

Critical checks:

  • Electrical wires may run through sidelights
  • Structural header above door must remain intact
  • Subfloor condition affects threshold height
  • Plumbing stacks sometimes hidden behind walls
  • Load-bearing walls require temporary support

How to install a pre-hung door?

New units simplify alignment:

Installation Sequence

  1. Dry-fit door in opening (confirm square/plumb)
  2. Shim hinge side every 12" moving upward
  3. Screw frame through shims into studs
  4. Check operation before final tightening
  5. Insulate gaps with low-expansion foam
  6. Reinstall trim with finishing nails

Adjustment tips:

  • 1/8" clearance at top/sides is ideal
  • 3/16" gap at bottom for carpet/rugs
  • Plumb bob ensures perfect vertical alignment
  • Rubber bands can hold unlatched door in position
  • Wax candle smoothes sticky hinge points

How to fit a replacement slab door?

Transferring hardware requires precision:

Slab Door Conversion

Step Measurement Tool Tolerance
Hinge Mortising Existing hinge depth Chisel ±1/32"
Bore for Knob Backset measurement Hole saw Exact
Top/Bottom Trim Door height - 1/8" Saw ±1/16"
Edge Sanding Swing clearance Planer Feather only

Common pitfalls:

  • Routed too deep→ Pack hinges with cardboard
  • Misaligned striker→ File latch plate holes larger
  • Binding at top→ Plane/sand upper edge slightly
  • Door won't stay open→ Adjust hinge tension
  • Weatherstrip bulge→ Recess groove deeper

What finishing touches matter?

Final details ensure longevity:

Post-Installation Checklist

  1. Seal all edges with paintable silicone
  2. Touch-up paint on screw heads/scuffs
  3. Adjust closer (if applicable) to proper speed
  4. Test hardware 50+ open/close cycles
  5. Verify weatherstripping creates complete seal

Specialty products:

  • Hinge pin sleeves eliminate wobble
  • Automatic door bottoms improve insulation
  • Soft-close buffers prevent slamming
  • Swing clear hinges gain 3" clearance
  • Draft snake blocks residual air leaks

Door replacement transforms a home's functionality when done correctly. I always recommend prehung units for first-timers—the extra $50-$75 eliminates hinge-fitting frustrations. For historic homes, consider routing new hinge mortises slightly undersized (1/64" shallower) to account for wood compression over decades. Keep original trim intact by scoring paint lines with a utility knife before removal. Most importantly, work incrementally—better to make five 1/16" adjustments than one aggressive cut that ruins the door. With proper planning, even complete novices can achieve professional-looking results that last 20+ years.

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